Trim Indicator not working

[Big Block Power]

Stupid question if it was wired wrong how did the Faria diagnosis work. Lol
Glad you fixed it.

[rabiddawg]

I removed the gauges (old and new) then followed faria’s procedure hooking them up to a battery I have in my shop. The old gauge was bad; no doubt about that.

I started to question the gauge install after connecting the wires in the engine compartment. The gauge didn’t respond as it should.

That’s what happens when you assume it’s wired correctly before you remove the old one.

[CBO]

When I bought the boat the trim gauge was not working. I found that the post on the sender was broken. I am currently replacing the sender with the new non contact design. My question is, does the motor need to be running for the trim gauge/sender to work? I know silly question, but when picking up the boat, the mechanic said the motor had to be running for it to work. I currently have the drive off and unable to start it. I have the new sender plugged in on the inside of the boat and with the key on the gauge pegs to the down position and when rotating the post the gauge will move slightly but will not move to the up position. I verified the gauge to be working correctly using the Faria test procedures. Any help is much appreciated. Also the old sender still works and when plugging it in I have the same results.
2007 222
5.7 OSXI
DPS-B
TSK shield assembly

[Big Block Power]

I'm 99% sure mine works with key on engine not running.

[Titaniumboy]

I found out that my trim pump will run with 1) Engine not running, 2) No key, and 3) battery switch off.

For the trim indicator to work requires 1) battery switch on and 2) key on.

[CBO]

Thank you for the replies.
Ok, here are my findings. The motor does not need to be running for the trim gauge to work. I pulled the trim gauge out and the only thing I found odd was the nut in the center of the gauge was loose. After tightening and reinstalling, the gauge started to work. When rotating the new trim sender the gauge would not go all the way up or down. I then tried the old sender and the gauge worked correctly. So the new sender which is an electromagnet vs the old rheostat is not compatible with my engine harness. My main issue was that my transom assembly is a 2014 and the motor is a 2007. When I look up parts for my transom assembly it shows this new style trim sender. Very confusing but lesson learned.

[bobthebuilder]

I have a different trim indicator issue that I could sure use some help on! 2006 262 with Volvo 8.1 Gi DP that I just got, this was the only thing wrong with it. Seller replaced the gauge and gave me the sender as he didn't have time and I was a little impatient to take the new toy home to play with it....ok...a lot impatient.

Got the sender replaced and wired back in and still nothing. Turn the ignition on and the gauge goes to the full up position, when I hit the switch, the gauge will bounce but goes right back to full up. It is an older two wire system with no limit/trailer switch. At the gauge, both wires are purple but one is striped. Striped is on the 'S' terminal of the gauge, solid is to the T. It was wired in reverse and the needle wouldn't move at all so guessing that was backwards?

On the sending unit at the drive, where should the cog be in it's rotation when put into the drive? Yes, it got spun before it was put in. Have tried it full one way and full the other and in the middle, no luck.

Last question, the keeper pin on the inside of the transom is a nightmare to put back. Siliconed the plug before putting it in and zip tied the line to the grease tube like the factory had done to prevent any tension on it - think it will be OK or bite the bullet and try to get the clip on the plug?

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!