210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

Post by cobalter »

Anyone here have opinions on this boat and motor combo? Seems the smaller engine choices might be a little thin with this size boat or at altitude such as 3600 feet at Lake Powell, UT. Our last cobalt was a 2003 226 with Volvo 300 hp and it was two feet longer and perhaps a little heavier. It ran in upper 50s as I recall but only on speedo not GPS. The newer boats have a slightly different hull design so not sure how that affects top speed but suppose to be smoother and flatter cornering.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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I have a new 210 with the same 5.7L V8 engine, but tuned to run 225hp instead of 300 or 320hp. The only difference between the 225 and 300 is the throttle body and ECU, while the 320 has several parts changed to get the extra horsepower. Top speed is a little under 50MPH, but only 3.5 seconds to get on plane with the dual prop configuration.

Volvo has stated that torque is the same for the 225 and 300 through most of the power band, but the 300 has a higher top rpm, and therefore mph. I've seen tests that show the 210 topping 55mph with the Mercury 320hp, so I'd guess the Volvo 320hp will be similar (i.e. don't expect 60mph), and the 300 should be maybe 53-54mph?

I'm much more interested in being able to pull a skier and reliability than in another 8mph top end speed, so the 225 was a perfect fit for me. It's a fair bit cheaper than the 300 or 320, and Volvo actively promotes it as a good choice for high altitude boaters.

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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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Thanks for helpful reply. In my case it is usually just two people cruising on bigger lakes where a high cruise speed in helpful esp. when running the 100 plus mile length of Lake Powell, UT or similar lakes like Table Rock or Grand of the Cherokees early in the morning. The difference between 800 ft. altitude vs. 3600 at Powell would also make a difference as I think you lose about 3% of HP per 1000 feet altitude. We don't do water sports (only two of us) so no need for the hole shots particularly and therefor my interest in top speed; not that I would be running 5000 or 5200 rpm for long but 60 mph potential is just my own benchmark when looking at boat and motor combos. Would it be worthwhile to re-prop a Volvo DP for this purpose vs the standard that is probably more efficient for water sports?
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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Volvo recommends changing gear ratios in the outdrive if much higher than 3500 feet, but a propeller change would accomplish about the same thing with less cost. It's also easy to switch back and forth with a $20 tool if you boat at different altitudes.

The real issue with altitude is that the boat will get a little less air at a given throttle position than it is calibrated to take in. If carburated, the boat may run a little rich so you'll only have enough air to burn some percentage of the fuel being used, and fuel efficiency will suffer. EFI on newer engines like the Volvo 5.7 compensates for this better than engines of 10 years ago.

As for derating for altitude, I know the 225 is still rated for 225hp at 3500 feet, but the 300 and 320 have already started to drop in horsepower. Your 3% rule of thumb is familiar, but engines start dropping horsepower at different altitudes so you don't always start counting from 0 feet (e.g., the V8-225 is still 225hp at 3500 feet, but is probably down 3% by 4500 feet).

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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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Ok, thanks. If the usual altitude for the operation is around 1,000 ft. would a change of props be worthwhile to increase top speed and cruising speed? The 3600 ft. operation would only be about once a year. I know what a single prop costs but hate to think what two would cost for this DP. In any case you have provided some insightful info on the matter. I have ordered the 210 with the Volvo DP 5.7 GXi 320 hp. I think this will be a good combination and look forward to any additional opinions.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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That's a lot of engine for the boat, and I'd think you'll be just fine. If not, you're looking at maybe $1200 to find a discounted set of propellers, and about $1400 list. Ask me how I know. (Dinged a propeller on a rock a couple weeks ago, and am now motivated not to let that happen again).
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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Ouch, it does make one even more paranoid about submerged objects. Are these props the same, just left and right handed?
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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No, they are a little different in addition to their different orientations. a few local shops specialize in repair - looks like they should be back to new for under $250, but still... time to start watching where I'm going.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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My dealer called to finalize my 210 order with a completion date of end of June. Does anyone know how long it takes to complete a 210 for shipping from the date it goes into production?
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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That depends a lot on when you order it. I ordered mine the last day of 2014, and it arrived at the dealer in early April, but an order in early summer may mean you're four+ months away from seeing the boat. Your delaer should be able to get an estimate for you.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

Post by cobalter »

In my case they had a slot open up on an existing order about the time I ordered couple of weeks so it's going into production maybe this week. So my question was actual build time, not the entire process. Thanks though.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

Post by jhnmdahl »

Here's a propeller application chart showing selected propellers, top speeds, etc., for various Cobalt 210 configurations (click "view image" in your browser if it's too small to read) from Cobalt. Some of the numbers seem a little suspect (the V8-225 single prop gets on plane faster than the duo prop?), but it's what they have provided:
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

Post by cobalter »

Thanks for that info. I imagine the Merc Bravo 3 320 hp shown here is comparable to the Volvo 5.7 GXi 320 which I'm getting. Boat will probably arrive next week and I'll see what my boat comes with for the props. I'm in no hurry to change but can consider the differences vs cost while getting the engine broke in.

One other question you might know. I downloaded the engine break-in procedure for the 5.7 from a Volvo manual and it was dated 2006. I know there have been some minor changes at least electronically in the meantime. And I know my Cobalt rep will go over all this when we have our orientation on the water with the boat. But just wondering if there might be some changes in terms of the break-in procedure 9 years later that you might be aware of?

The 06 procedure I downloaded was exactly the same as what we did when we had a 226 with 5.7 300 hp back in 2003 to 2005. It is broken down into various hours of break-in up to 20 hrs when at that time the dealer wanted to see the boat for some checks, etc. I cannot find a more recent Volvo manual than the 2006 one so far. Wondering if one is out there and if break-in remains the same.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

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They have changed it up a bit over the years, and not all information from Volvo is consistent. You'll get an envelope with the engine, which includes the latest and greatest break-in recommendations as well.

My summary notes are:

First 5-10 minutes - do not exceed 1500 rpm, vary speed
First 2 hours – vary speed, run at low planing speed (300 rpm or so), bring up to ¾ speed 2-3 min and give cooling off periods
First 2-10 hours – ¾ throttle or less, vary speed, give cooling off periods at idle
First 10-20 hours – 5-10 min full rpm ok, give cooling off periods

Engine is provided with dino oil for first 20 hours, then can change to Mobil 1 15w/50 (Volvo says 5W-30 or heavier, SM or GF-4) and new filter
Gas – 87 octane is ok, but EFI engines can advance timing and benefit from 89.
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Re: 210 with Volvo DP 300 or 320 hp

Post by cobalter »

Ok that is similar to older one. Did they say to bring in to dealer at 20 hrs. for an engine check?

First Service Inspection (Dealer 20-Hour Check)

To ensure your continued boating enjoyment, we recommend that you return your Volvo Penta product to your Volvo Penta dealer for a 20-hour check. This 20-hour check will prevent a minor problem from getting worse and helps ensure a trouble-free boating season. When servicing your engine, your Volvo Penta dealer will use the following guidelines to inspect your product:

Start the engine and check that:

No leakage of fuel, oil, water, or exhaust gases occurs.
Engine oil pressure and temperature are within specification.
All cables and controls operate correctly.
All gauges, instruments, and alarms operate cor-
rectly.
Steering system operates correctly.
Engine ignition timing and idle RPM are within specifications.
Power trim system operates correctly. Stop the engine and:
Change engine oil and oil filter.
Change fuel/water separator filter.
Clean seawater strainer (if equipped).
• Check fluid levels and fluid condition in stern- drive or inboard transmission, power steering pump, and trim pump.

• Check propeller(s) and propeller fasteners. • Check condition of battery and battery cable

connections.

• Lubricate all grease fittings and linkages follow- ing service recommendations.

• Check tightness of all water, fuel, exhaust clamps, fittings, drive bellows, and drains.

Restart the engine and recheck that:

• No leakage of fuel, oil, water, or exhaust gases occurs.

• Engine oil pressure and temperature are within specifications.

This is a perfect time to discuss with your Volvo Penta dealer any questions about your engine that may have arisen during the first 20 hours of operation and establish a routine preventive maintenance schedule.

NOTE! Always insist that your dealer use genuine Volvo Penta parts when replacing engine components. Operating After Break-in Period

After the break-in period, the engine can be operated at any RPM from idle to full throttle. Cruising at 3600 RPM or less, however, saves fuel, reduces noise, and prolongs engine life.
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