Cobaltchat.com

But what about the size of the R8? Small gunwales, wet ride, more of a lake boat?

I personally like the 296. It’s just a good size boat, I like the layout and they are just really good driving/handling Boats. The 296 with twin 300 Volvos it’s probably going to run in the neighborhood of around 60 miles an hour. I am sure I have driven one with twin 300s but I cannot recall the top speed. But I do know that a 296 with twin 320s would run in the low 60s.

The 302 is a nice boat, but I’ve never been a huge fan of the way that boat is laid out. Especially the engine compartment. Accessing batteries and what not is a PITA. The 380s are probably the best engine Volvo’s making at the moment, I actually prefer them over the 430. That boat is probably gonna run in the low 60s as well.

Although I do agree, outboards are nice in salt/brackish water. The R8 would be my last choice of the 3 for “ big water”.

With the Volvo’s being LS based engines, and being closed cooled then the maintenance for saltwater use is minimal compared to what it used to be with all iron engines that were open cooled. And maintenance on the Volvos are ridiculously easy. You can change both in impellers in 20 minutes, taking your time.

As far as “ market value” goes. That’s where I have to bow out. I know the outboards on the Cobalts have value in those areas, you can’t give them away around inland waters where I’m from.

So of the three comma, the 296 would be my choice hands-down.

Just my opinion, hope that helps you some.

I know I’m slow to respond, I typically only check the forms once a day. But if you have any other questions, feel free to message me and I will give you my cell number. I’ll be happy to help you in anyway I can.

Thanks

Izzybo69 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 09, 2023 11:33 am Trent_boater

In response to your question, it varies from model to model. Most cobalt will have a tow point on the back of the boat above the swim platform. That tow point IS acceptable for towing “tubes” or other towable’s. I know it is NOT recommended to tow “tubes” from the tower if that’s what you’re asking.

If you have a specific model that you were inquiring about, I’ll gladly give you my opinion.

Thanks.

CS23.

This is an acceptable spot for towing tubes, skis, etc.

Izzybo69 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 29, 2023 8:32 am AsLan7,

That helps a lot. Again, I do not intend to “bash” Cobalt in any way, shape or form. I just wanted to get an idea of how open and honest I can be with helping people when they have questions.

Thanks for the response

I think you will find this to be a pretty opened minded group that values honesty over popularity any day.

Winterization process for Merc. 7.4 mpi
My previous mechanic retired and the new one in my area says they flush with antifreeze and then leave all drains and hoses disconnected. My previous mechanic left the antifreeze in the engine... I tend to agree with my former mech's philosophy in that it prevents internal corrosion and may help keep the hoses from drying out. I'm leaning towards doing the winterization myself but I want to be sure I'm on the right track. Any advise is appreciated. I know there are multiple ways of doing this but this is what I'm thinking.

1). I plan to pull all the blue plugs (5 in total) and drain the water making sure I plunge the holes with a wire or something to make sure there is no obstructions.
2). Replace the plugs.
3). Remove the thermostat and run the engine with a mix of 2 cycle oil, gas, and fuel stabilizer....... Suggestions on ration?
4). Along with #3 I will be hooking up the muffs and run the engine with marine antifreeze.
5). Replace the T stat after the antifreeze has circulated through. I plan to pour some into the hoses to fill them up if I loose any during this process.
That should be it, correct?

My reasoning for pulling the thermostat is to make sure the antifreeze has circ. through the engine. I could leave it in and just run the engine up to temp. but then I'll probably wind up in the burn unit as I try to remove those plugs reaching around a hot engine block.

I will replace the lower gear oil and engine oil in the fall. I pull the lower unit, grease and replace o rings in the spring.

Am I on the right track?

Just purchased a new 2023 CS 22 with the 300 hp VP drive. Really enjoy the boat!
Question it currently does 50 MPH at 5900 rpm with the factory F5 prop set. Any experience with installing a F6 prop set on this hull and engine comb?
Want to increase top speed, increase cruising speed at 3500 RPM's and not lose to much hole shot.

Kenboat wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 10:21 am Just purchased a new 2023 CS 22 with the 300 hp VP drive. Really enjoy the boat!
Question it currently does 50 MPH at 5900 rpm with the factory F5 prop set. Any experience with installing a F6 prop set on this hull and engine comb?
Want to increase top speed, increase cruising speed at 3500 RPM's and not lose to much hole shot.

Is 5900RPM your current WOH? If so, you are perfect if not slightly overpropped.

Yes 5900 rpm at WOT.

Kenboat wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2023 3:33 pm Yes 5900 rpm at WOT.

Then don't change props. You have the correct prop!

Very Good

The V8-300 is rated for 5800rpm top, and the general rule of thumb is that you can keep trying more aggressive props until you can't hit top rpm anymore and go back to the last prop pitch that could. If you don't care about top speed but want to tow a lot of weight you might deviate from this, but it's the way almost all props are matched to boats.