Thinking of converting from Surge to EOH

[bruceb58]

Makes no sense to me either. I don’t have a pic of the coupler but it’s a basic UFP a-75 surge coupler.

It would seem to me that who would put less stress on a tongue than surge brakes

Do it yourself...pretty easy. Don't worry about the wiring it's a piece of cake assuming your tow vehicle can supply enough current through the 7 pin(Big if BTW)

If you need advice, I can walk you through it.

Do you have drum or disc brakes? If you have drum, now is the perfect time to go to disc.

Out of curiosity, what vehicle are you towing it with?

[sailor55330]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

[Big Block Power]

Sailor you know I'm your devils advocate
Why would you think of doing this. How many miles have you actually tied your boat. You may tow it across the country when you move but really save the money. Put it towards your r6. I'm ok with surge brakes when you sell it to me anyways

[sailor55330]

But then how can I overcharge you if it only has standard surge brakes BBP? You know they say brakes are the single biggest upgrade in towed boats....

[bruceb58]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

[mdadgar]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I keep meaning to ask - did your F150 have have the HD Tow package, or just the regular receiver setup?

- Mark

[bruceb58]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I keep meaning to ask - did your F150 have have the HD Tow package, or just the regular receiver setup?

- Mark

Max Tow. But my understanding is that even if you got the HD tow package(very rare) it still has the same charging module and wiring.

[sailor55330]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I would have no clue how to check that. The only reference I would have is that in the manual, the "tail/tow" fuse circuit for tail lights and towing is showing as a 30A fuse which seems really heaving for just lights

[bruceb58]

Thank you Bruce. I currently have Disc, so that's a plus. The tow vehicle is a Sequoia wired from the factory with a 7pin connector. It's considered a pretty fair tow vehicle by the RV community so hopefully the needed current is there. More concerned about the coupler. WIll know more when I get the boat home in the next couple of weeks. Of all the pics I have, none of the coupler.

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I would have no clue how to check that. The only reference I would have is that in the manual, the "tail/tow" fuse circuit for tail lights and towing is showing as a 30A fuse which seems really heaving for just lights

My bet...its a separate fuse.

What I did, and I suggest you do, is once you wire it up, leave a way to measure the voltage at the pump. Measure it while you operate the trailer controller manually inside your vehicle. My voltage was dropping to less than 9V which was not enough to reliably operate the pump. Do it with the engine running so that voltage starts out higher.

[sailor55330]

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I would have no clue how to check that. The only reference I would have is that in the manual, the "tail/tow" fuse circuit for tail lights and towing is showing as a 30A fuse which seems really heaving for just lights

My bet...its a separate fuse.

What I did, and I suggest you do, is once you wire it up, leave a way to measure the voltage at the pump. Measure it while you operate the trailer controller manually inside your vehicle. My voltage was dropping to less than 9V which was not enough to reliably operate the pump. Do it with the engine running so that voltage starts out higher.

It is a separate fuse from what I can tell. However, you officially just went past the realm of my understanding of automotive electrical. I can build, cut, sand, drill and connect with the best of them but circuitry involving currents is a complete foreign language to me be it 12v or 120v which is why doing it myself makes me nervous. I’ve read books, watched videos, helped others, but it just doesn’t register in my brain. It might as well be Ancient Greek

[mdadgar]

The reason I asked is because my Chevy could power the EOH unit fine but my Ford F-150 couldn't because the wire gauge going through the 7 Pin is too small. Also, the F-150 needs to see a battery load in order to turn that 12V circuit on which was also a PITA. The unit will put a healthy current draw...upwards of 30A.

I keep meaning to ask - did your F150 have have the HD Tow package, or just the regular receiver setup?

- Mark

Max Tow. But my understanding is that even if you got the HD tow package(very rare) it still has the same charging module and wiring.

Max Tow is actually what I meant, thanks.

- Mark

[bruceb58]

It is a separate fuse from what I can tell. However, you officially just went past the realm of my understanding of automotive electrical. I can build, cut, sand, drill and connect with the best of them but circuitry involving currents is a complete foreign language to me be it 12v or 120v which is why doing it myself makes me nervous. I’ve read books, watched videos, helped others, but it just doesn’t register in my brain. It might as well be Ancient Greek

If you have a volt meter, you can make the measurement easily. No need to measure the current.

[sailor55330]

It is a separate fuse from what I can tell. However, you officially just went past the realm of my understanding of automotive electrical. I can build, cut, sand, drill and connect with the best of them but circuitry involving currents is a complete foreign language to me be it 12v or 120v which is why doing it myself makes me nervous. I’ve read books, watched videos, helped others, but it just doesn’t register in my brain. It might as well be Ancient Greek

If you have a volt meter, you can make the measurement easily. No need to measure the current.

I do have a volt meter and can read it but iffy read to low I would have no clue how to wire a new separate circuit so it’s kind of irrelevant. I think I’m in over my head if that’s necessary. As an example I once blew 5 fuses trying to wire a 3 wire switch on driving lights. Never did the lighted part of the switch to work. Better to realize your weaknesses. Mines electrical

[rabiddawg]

Sailer55330, I’m in the same boat as you

Electrical isn’t my thing.

bruce58 and I have discussed this before. He is much more technical than I. I plug in my harness and it works so I think I’m ok. He goes above and beyond to make sure he is ok. Problem is, I won’t know until it too late and I don’t know how to fix it so I’m goons run what got til I have a problem.

My f150 with the 262 behind it is not a comfortable feeling. I don’t care what the ratings show. My butt says the boat is too heavy for the truck so I am very conservative in turns. Pulling, no problem. Stopping in a straight line, no problem.

[bruceb58]

Sailer55330, I’m in the same boat as you

Electrical isn’t my thing.

bruce58 and I have discussed this before. He is much more technical than I. I plug in my harness and it works so I think I’m ok. He goes above and beyond to make sure he is ok. Problem is, I won’t know until it too late and I don’t know how to fix it so I’m goons run what got til I have a problem.

My f150 with the 262 behind it is not a comfortable feeling. I don’t care what the ratings show. My butt says the boat is too heavy for the truck so I am very conservative in turns. Pulling, no problem. Stopping in a straight line, no problem.

Yes...you have the Dexter unit. Although it does say it needs 30A, it may handle reduced voltage differently. Not sure if there could be any difference between a 2019 F-150 like you have and my 2018. Kinda doubt it.