Rotors again—-
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Rotors again—-
So I’ve got the dreaded front wheel shake at high speed braking. It’s the rotors. I’m pretty sure I warped them when I was towing as I didn’t realize the trailer brakes weren’t 100% due to a leaking brake line that wasn’t visible. So now I’m tossed with aftermarket or OEM. The originals lasted 60ki. Aftermarket made it 20k. Next set of OEM made it 15k—but that is likely due to the trailer brakes putting extra load.
Not sure which way to go—oem or aftermarket. I have always cleaned the hub and torqued the lugs so I don’t believe it’s the installation.
Oem are really hard to find right now. Thoughts?
Not sure which way to go—oem or aftermarket. I have always cleaned the hub and torqued the lugs so I don’t believe it’s the installation.
Oem are really hard to find right now. Thoughts?
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Re: Rotors again—-
I could, possibly, but around here, a brake job with turned rotors is about $175. I can get new rotors for $208.... for $33, it's a no brainer to me.
Re: Rotors again—-
If rotors are warped due to heat, you can't turn them because the warp would come back. The way the metal crystal in the rotor align when heated very hot stay that way so the warp will come back eventually.
Saying that, its very rare that rotors actually warp, its really uneven deposits of brake material on the rotor that causes the pulsing. You can easily verify if its actually warped with a runout gauge.
I always use Centric blanks on most of my vehicles along with Akebono ceramic pads. However, when my 2018 F-150 brakes require replacing, I am going OEM rotors and pads. I love how the brakes are on this truck.
Don't go with drilled or slotted rotors. That means forget those powerstop setups.
Saying that, its very rare that rotors actually warp, its really uneven deposits of brake material on the rotor that causes the pulsing. You can easily verify if its actually warped with a runout gauge.
I always use Centric blanks on most of my vehicles along with Akebono ceramic pads. However, when my 2018 F-150 brakes require replacing, I am going OEM rotors and pads. I love how the brakes are on this truck.
Don't go with drilled or slotted rotors. That means forget those powerstop setups.
2017 R5 350HP Mercruiser Bravo III
Northridge, CA
Big Bear Lake, CA
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Northridge, CA
Big Bear Lake, CA
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Re: Rotors again—-
I always use OEM. I’ve had bad experiences with junk Autozone/Advanced auto parts garbage going south fast. Their iron quality is pure $#it.
If OEM isn’t readily available, I might give NAPA a shot.
If OEM isn’t readily available, I might give NAPA a shot.
2017 Cobalt R7
"Cobalt" Blue
6.2L VP 380 or 430
#FARCON Marine
"Cobalt" Blue
6.2L VP 380 or 430
#FARCON Marine
Re: Rotors again—-
.
+1
2002 Cobalt 262
&
2005 Cobalt 263
496 MagHO
(sold )
Erie, PA
Currently boatless (for now)
will fly for food
(CChat moderator)
&
2005 Cobalt 263
496 MagHO
(sold )
Erie, PA
Currently boatless (for now)
will fly for food
(CChat moderator)
- Big Block Power
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Re: Rotors again—-
I'm not sure about Toyota but gm ousted AC delco and Ford used Motorcraft and Chrysler uses Magneti Marelli. What I will tell you is if you don't ask for OEM that is what you get and it's not the same. And even if you ask for OEM that what you might get unless you really tell them Thats what you get. I'll tell you last year after pulling my boat to TRL I got my brakes to pulsate. Pissed me of at 25000 miles. So will I go aftermarket yea. Magneti Marelli are junk so I won't go with them. Plus I do the labor Myself so if they warp again oh well I'll replace them again. I'm very slotted probably. And looking for better pads. But they also can't squeal. So you really have to pray and hope Aftermarket doesn't. OEM is better on that. But I do want better stopping power and less dust. So hopefully I can get that. Or I might just trade it in as prices are good right now and they have a used 21 with 10000 miles on it. So that's how I fix things that bother me.
03Cobalt220 8.1gxi DP
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
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"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
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Re: Rotors again—-
Well after calling every dealership within 100 miles I finally found a pair of OEM rotors as my last experiment with aftermarket was dissapointing. I learned that Toyota had a severe backlog on all rotors due to the supply chain issues the world is experiencing. I guess I’m lucky to have gotten them.
So, a couple hours later I am smooth and pulse free again. I’ve pretty much got it down to where I can change front rotors in 2 hrs now
So, a couple hours later I am smooth and pulse free again. I’ve pretty much got it down to where I can change front rotors in 2 hrs now
- Big Block Power
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Re: Rotors again—-
Hopefully you used a torque wrench and cleaned the mounting surface very well. And yes congrats. And yes OEM ones are on back ordered on mine too hence the reason I didn't change them yet. Plus the warp isn't horrible plus I don't drive the bricks much the Mrs bbp does.sailor55330 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 29, 2021 12:00 pm Well after calling every dealership within 100 miles I finally found a pair of OEM rotors as my last experiment with aftermarket was dissapointing. I learned that Toyota had a severe backlog on all rotors due to the supply chain issues the world is experiencing. I guess I’m lucky to have gotten them.
So, a couple hours later I am smooth and pulse free again. I’ve pretty much got it down to where I can change front rotors in 2 hrs now
03Cobalt220 8.1gxi DP
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
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Re: Rotors again—-
Absolutely BBP—-cleaned with a high speed wire brush twice, sprayed brake cleaner to remove any dust then torqued to spec with a torque wrench—all bolts
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Re: Rotors again—-
sailor55330 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 29, 2021 12:47 pm Absolutely BBP—-cleaned with a high speed wire brush twice, sprayed brake cleaner to remove any dust then torqued to spec with a torque wrench—all bolts
Honestly express lubes and rotates can be a killer on your rotors if not done correctly. Then pulling loads. Trl was my doom. I Wish everyone would have just gotten out of my way and it would have been fine. Lol
Surge brakes down fall. If I had electric then I could adjust that. But hey I don't do oh well. They Aren't that bad so is what it is.
03Cobalt220 8.1gxi DP
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
"Kids in Tow2"
"Pot The Jus" Originator :-)
Neenah Wi
#ItsBu'sfault
#FARCON Marine CC Core!
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Re: Rotors again—-
Agree BBP. For me it was a combination of losing most of the trailer brakes when the brake line split and idiots in traffic darting in front at the last minute forcing hard braking over and over for about a hundred miles . My truck brakes have always been god but stopping 11k in a hurry is a lot to ask of any stock brake system. Totally agree EOH would stop that but it is what it is for now.
Re: Rotors again—-
My rotors lasted 90k miles on my f150, saved a few bucks and had a local shop put on the replacements, replaced twice under warranty, the mechanic told me he has had lots of problems with rotors, I will always go Orem after this. Plus the lemon ones didn’t rust around the edges,,,they looked better.
Cobalt 292, white with blue sport stripes, twin Volvo 5.7’s.
Stilwell Ks, boat at Tablerock
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