Winterization Gen 5 Volvo Penta

[drtbar]

Found some good videos and info on winterizing my R6

Changing the oil:



Winterizing the engine:



I've read multiple places about using the flush port when running the engine and this guy did the same. No ear muffs needed.

He did run antifreeze through the block, despite having the easy drain. No where in the manual does it suggest or recommend this. I've called a couple dealers and they say they do the same, but I'm sure it's "better to be safe than sorry" when more than likely it's a waste of time and money. I do not plan on doing this.

I like that the guy used a regular gas tank for the fogging procedure with 50:1 oil/gas mix. Most of us have that mix for our small engine equipment and can use the existing gas tank it's in rather than buying a "portable gas tank" for $50+ just to fog the engine.

Most of the supplies were cheapest through https://marinepartssource.com/

Hope this helps!

[drtbar]

This is the best video I found for changing the gear lube:

[drtbar]

This is the service protocol for my R6

Untitled.jpg

Most notable, every two years for oil and gear lube change, and every 4 for impeller.

[bruceb58]

He did run antifreeze through the block, despite having the easy drain. No where in the manual does it suggest or recommend this. I've called a couple dealers and they say they do the same, but I'm sure it's "better to be safe than sorry" when more than likely it's a waste of time and money. I do not plan on doing this.

The engine has closed cooling so he didn't run antifreeze through the block. Any antifreeze he ran went through the heat exchanger, oil cooler(if it has one) and the manifolds...totally unnecessary since you can easily drain all of them.

Personally, I would still change engine oil and gear oil every year. I would still change impeller every other year.

At least they call out that you need to inspect the u-joints every two years which of course means pulling the drive. Not sure they had that time specified previously since you need to pull the drive to do that. I always did my Volvo every year.

[drtbar]

He did run antifreeze through the block, despite having the easy drain. No where in the manual does it suggest or recommend this. I've called a couple dealers and they say they do the same, but I'm sure it's "better to be safe than sorry" when more than likely it's a waste of time and money. I do not plan on doing this.

The engine has closed cooling so he didn't run antifreeze through the block. Any antifreeze he ran went through the heat exchanger, oil cooler(if it has one) and the manifolds...totally unnecessary since you can easily drain all of them.

Personally, I would still change engine oil and gear oil every year. I would still change impeller every other year.

At least they call out that you need to inspect the u-joints every two years which of course means pulling the drive. Not sure they had that time specified previously since you need to pull the drive to do that. I always did my Volvo every year.

Thanks for that info Bruce. Do you think it would help to blow air through the water flush valve just to get any residual water out after the easy drain?

[jhnmdahl]

This is the best video I found for changing the gear lube:

DP outdrive is of course significantly different:

[Bitburg90]

My R6 is on a lift. After draining the system and leaving it open to drain, if there was any remaining water that did not drain, it would freeze and expand towards the open end of the system, correct? Same theory applies to opening the outdoor water faucets in the winter when I lived up north. We would turn off all the water to the outdoor faucets and then leave the faucet open in the event any remaining water froze. If it did freeze, it would expand right out the open end of the faucet.

I'm still debating on what I'm going to do this Fall here in Georgia. It sure would be nice to use the boat year round. The statement from the Volvo Penta Easy Drain video sticks in my head: "... because Easy Drain eliminates the risk of freeze damage to the engine components it extends the boating season and allows boaters to enjoy the water stress free all year round.."

[drtbar]

This is the best video I found for changing the gear lube:

DP outdrive is of course significantly different:

Thanks for correcting my mistake. I don't think I can edit my post to stop others from watching the incorrect video.

MODERATOR EDIT - I don't think either video is incorrect, they're just for different drives. Make sure you know what you have before tearing into it, and you should be fine.

[bruceb58]

Thanks for that info Bruce. Do you think it would help to blow air through the water flush valve just to get any residual water out after the easy drain?

Sure...wouldn't hurt!

[stifflkd]

Don't forget to open the the flush port located on the outdrive as well. Regarding the fogging I recommend getting a new water separator (they should be replaced annually) and add the mixture to it as well otherwise a good part of the run is not fogging.

[drtbar]

Just an update here, I did "winterize" my drive yesterday. I put it in quotes because all I did was run the 50:1 gas mixture though the engine and then drained it with the easy drain. I did run some air through the flush ports after the drain, and lowered the lower unit and blew some more air through it.

Removing the fuel line was a complete PITA. I had to use a screwdriver and channel locks and worked the line for about 10 minutes before I could get it to come off. Ran the 50:1 gas for about 7 minutes at 1500rpms.

I'm confident you do not need to run antifreeze through it. Waste of time and money. That's the whole point of the easy drain!

[stifflkd]

I know what you mean about the fuel line. They must put some type of adhesive on it to prevent a leak. I struggled last year, hoping it is a lot easier this time around.

[ajcampen]

I replaced my barb fitting with a swivel head. Trident Marine 502-3838. I can’t find the part anymore though. Makes it very easy to spin on spin off

[drtbar]

I replaced my barb fitting with a swivel head. Trident Marine 502-3838. I can’t find the part anymore though. Makes it very easy to spin on spin off

Sounds like a much better setup. I'll look for that part. Thanks for the info!

[ajcampen]

I replaced my barb fitting with a swivel head. Trident Marine 502-3838. I can’t find the part anymore though. Makes it very easy to spin on spin off

Sounds like a much better setup. I'll look for that part. Thanks for the info!

If you find it please share here. I got it off of amazon originally and it is out of stock now (and has been for a long time). You will need at least two. One for your boat fuel line and one for your small external fuel tank.

see this post I made when I did the conversion. I have a merc but the process should be the same. You will just have to figure out your size hose and the fiting that hook up to your fuel system. you might need to replace what the swivel fitting will hook to (as I did - I called Mercury and they helped me with the process by telling me thread size etc and what type of loctite to buy.). Everything documented at the link below on page 2 including the storage tank that I copied.

viewtopic.php?t=48&hilit=hose&start=15