Summerizing a 2020 R5 Surf

[john_perkins10]

I am a new Cobalt owner and looking to get my boat ready for the summer. I have the 6.2 380HP on a R5 Surf. My question is how do you get it ready for the season - specifically refilling the internal cooling system. The directions are very clear about the easy release of the cooling system during the winterization but it is hard to find information on refilling. I looked on the Volvo Penta owners manual and it talks about refilling with Volvo Penta Coolant Ready Mixed version is the preferred. My questions are the following: Where do you put it in? Only in the coolant tank on the left side of the engine (if you are looking at the back of the boat). Do you also put it in the black tank on the right side - where you release it? Is the Volvo Penta Coolant Ready mix the right and only thing you put in? How much do you put in and how do you know when it is full? Is there anything else I need to know?

I apologize if this is covered somewhere else - I searched but could not find anything.

Thanks for your help!

[VTENGR]

Our engines have a closed cooling side and a raw water cooling side. The easy drain drains the raw water cooling side. The closed cooling side has the anti-freeze in it - so you don't have to do anything with that. What you're reading with regard to filling the antifreeze has to deal with the closed cooling side.

My understanding of the easy drain system is that when you're ready to use the boat again, make sure the plug is back in the up (closed) position, boat is in the water, and start the engines. The engine will then suck the raw water back into the raw water cooling system and you're good to go.

[AsLan7]

Well said VT.

[john_perkins10]

Thank you for your prompt responses. This does clear things up. A couple of more questions to help educate me on how the cooling works. What parts does the closed cooling side cool and what does the raw water cool? Where does the raw water get sucked into on the boat. Sounds like as long as the raw water side is closed before putting it into the water it can be dry before putting it into the water. Please verify. Thanks again!

[VTENGR]

All very good questions. I'll try my best to answer. But keep in mind I'm learning all of this too, so I'm just passing along what I've learned and how I understand it. I'm not an expert so if I'm wrong, don't jump down my throat.

Easy one first... The water gets sucked in via the bottom part of the drive, just forward of the propellers. There's two vents on either side, and that's where the water gets sucked in. If you YouTube winterization, you will see a lot of people put "muff" on the motor. These "muffs" go over those vents, form a seal, and deliver water to the engine via a connected hose. This is how you can run your motor out of the water.

My understanding of the cooling system is that the antifreeze cools the engine and the raw water cools the antifreeze + exhaust manifolds. That's very rudimentary, but that's the basics as far as I understand.

Yes - as long as the easy drain is closed up and the water pump and suck in the water, you're OK if it's "DRY". It won't be dry for very long.

[greenhut]

I have used nothing but Easy Drain, and more recently a temperature triggered "bilge heater" (light bulb) to weather the last few Atlanta winters. Note that Atlanta winter's are not particularly harsh. As VT said, it really is as simple as opening and closing the easy drain system. You should of course do other routine maintenance (oil, outdrive oil, impeller, fuel filter, etc). When I drain the boat, I typically let it drain for 15-20m and then close it up to avoid forgetting to close it up before starting. If you do leave it in the drain position, I'd suggest putting a piece of tape over the ignition (or similar) to remind you. I also watch engine temp carefully after transitioning the Easy Drain system just in case something is wrong. So yes, the raw water side can be "dry" with easy drain closed when starting up for the season. This has always made me a bit nervous (e.g. running a dry impeller never good, but maybe it stays wet...) which is why I watch things carefully when de-winterizing.

VT got the big items, but I can expand a bit more on how the cooling works.

In the recent VP closed loop systems...

Raw water is pulled in through the outdrive by the belt driven water pump/impeller. From there it flows out to the Power Steering Oil Cooler and some water flows out of there to cool the fuel pump(cell) and then out into the exhaust manifold. Bulk of the water flowing out of the Power Steering Oil Cooler goes to the Heat Exchanger (like a car radiator) to cool the antifreeze mixture in the closed loop. From here it flows out through a T into both exhaust manifolds.

The closed loop side employs a belt driven circulation pump and thermostat to circulate the antifreeze mixture through channels in the engine and the oil cooler.

[john_perkins10]

Thank you all for your answers - very helpful!

[john_perkins10]

I do have one more question. If the raw water side has been drained for the winter, what is the process to put water back into it prior to starting the engine to avoid the dry impeller? There must be a process given draining the raw water part of the cooling system is common practice to winterize the boat.

[greenhut]

I do have one more question. If the raw water side has been drained for the winter, what is the process to put water back into it prior to starting the engine to avoid the dry impeller? There must be a process given draining the raw water part of the cooling system is common practice to winterize the boat.

Volvo does not recommend anything in this regard. Perhaps enough water stays in the pump/impeller area to make this a non-issue until water is pulled in. If you wanted to, you could close Easy Drain and use one of the flush ports to introduce water to the system before starting.

[Krob1114]

We've had no problem just pulling the plug, letting it drain,
Spring we just plug it back, drop it into the water, start and everything is fine. You do want to replace your impeller regularly.

[Big Block Power]

We've had no problem just pulling the plug, letting it drain,
Spring we just plug it back, drop it into the water, start and everything is fine. You do want to replace your impeller regularly.

This is Prob the 3rd year so Prob a good time to change it. Water will flow to the water line which is Prob at the impeller so it gets water right away.

[Alaskabound]

Just went through this process last week, starting the engine in my driveway. Models or years may be different, but on mine there is a blue hose connection on the transom area by the outdrive. After making sure that the “easy drain” was closed with the pin inserted, I hooked up the hose to the blue connection, turned the water on, and then waited until I saw water exiting the outdrive. I then started the engine, keeping an eye on the temp gauge just to be sure. I let the engine run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the engine area for leaks, etc. Hope this helps.

Dub

[sailor55330]

These guys nailed it. Make sure the easy drain is closed, the drive is in the water, and start it. You'll know if it's not getting water as the temp will rise immediatley. The water will get to the impeller nearly immediately and provide the lubrication you need. I would recommend changing the impeller every year---at the price it's cheap insurance. I've had to fish out one impeller from a Universal diesel in a sailboat....only had to take off the alternator, water pump, intake hose, water circulation hose and exhaust manifold...to get 3 pieces of rubber while standing on your head. 5 hour piece of cake.

Change the impeller regularly.......

[greenhut]

Change the impeller regularly.......

YES! I had a similar horror story on an older boat. So easy to change in the new Volvo's and space in the R5.